I love old wood. It has character, patina, and a history. I always imagine it has a story to tell.
Our family used to have a big, old, barn. It sat on the land that ancestors homesteaded in Indiana in 1834. Sometimes, I would look at the hand hewn beams and imagine those who had built it generations ago. First, the trees would have been felled. They did not have chain saws. The work would have been backbreaking, accomplished with only the sweat and effort of men and beast.
Once felled the trees would have had to be relocated to the building site, where the painstaking work of shaping the logs would take place. I would imagine the community gathering together to lift the mammoth beams into place. My mind would picture the roof and walls complete and animals safely sheltered in the stalls while a blizzard howled. I’d see a distant relative patiently milking a Jersey cow all the while talking gently to her as her big, soft, brown eyes, gaze lazily back at him.
The barn is gone now. Time and weather had taken it’s toll. The good wood was harvested to be sold or re-used and the remaining structure was burned. Even the footprint left by the structure is gone, erased by new grass and with it, all evidence of it’s existence.
But I see it still. When I look, I see the barn, standing strong along with the farmhouse that used to stand next to it. I see the people who lived and loved and struggled there. I see young children running and playing, older children pumping water from the well. I see a grandmother picking beans in the garden and a wife working over a hot stove in the summer kitchen. I see men toiling in the field behind a team of horses and a plow, or forking hay from the haymow with snow piled high against the exterior walls.
These are the stories kept and guarded by old, reclaimed barn wood. Wood reclaimed from barns isn’t the only reclaimed wood. It’s come from old, one room school houses, factory floors, demolished department stores. The sources are as numerous as the stories they could tell.
Reclaiming it. Re-using it. Repurposing it. This resonates within me. It honors those that first fashioned it from a tree in a forest into the useful thing it became. It honors the stories, maybe long forgotten, but there still the same.
Once, reclaimed wood was inexpensive and easy to obtain, but as decorating trends have changed and evolved, the demand has increased, prices have risen and inventories have dwindled.
I’m a purist. In my mind, there’s no substitution for the real thing. By definition, new wood does not have the same history. It’s devoid of stories and the patina possible only with time.
I’m also a realist. It’s not always practical nor affordable to use real, reclaimed wood, and some projects just don’t need it. So, I learned how to get that barn wood, aged look with minimal effort, minimal expense and no harsh chemicals.
Next time you need barn wood for your project, give this a try.
Pre-made stain solution ready to apply to wood
Make the solution:
Tear fine, steel wool into pieces and add to white vinegar. I generally make about 1/2 a gallon at a time. To do this, simply add 1-3 pad of fine steel wool to the vinegar container. (I usually only use one.) You could also combine them in another sealable container. Stir or shake and allow to “steep.”
After half and hour or so, this solution will work to age wood. Simply apply the solution to your wood with a paintbrush.
And that’s it folks! Really. That’s all you need to get that reclaimed barn wood look.
But, here are a few tips to help you get the look you’re really after. They almost blend in with the aged picnic table.
1. The longer you allow the solution to “steep”, the darker the treated wood will become. The solution used in these photos has been “steeping” for approximately two months. It also tends to become rustier in appearance with time.
2. The stain will darken as it dries on the wood. It takes a little time for the color to develop.
From top to bottom: As you can see, the oak is much darker. It’s been approximately 15 minutes since the stain was applied. The next board is a 2 x 4. Next is a naturally aged piece of lumber for reference. The pine board is last. The white streaks are because I lightly sanded it after it had dried.
3. If you want your project to be more rustic, the wood can be distressed prior to staining. Here are some of my favorite ways to do this:
- Lay the wood on gravel and walk on it.
- Place a chunky chain on the wood and bang it with a hammer.
- Scratch with a stiff wire brush.
- Use a wire brush wheel for a drill to create circular marks in the wood
- Use a wood burner, or propane torch to add burn marks
4. The solution reacts with tannins found in the wood and different woods contain different amount of tannins. If your wood is not coloring like you want, try brewing strong, black tea, and applying it first. Allow it to dry, then add the staining solution. The solution will react with the tannins in the tea, that have now soaked into your wood.
Treated 2 x 4 is on top. Next is the naturally aged lumber. I lightly sanded the dried oak piece and placed in on top of the natural piece so you can see how closely the color matches. The pine piece at the bottom has multiple coats of stain. You can see how it’s really starting to darken.
5. Multiple coats will result in a darker finish. For a subtle finish, “steep” the solution for only half and hour and apply only one coat. For a darker finish, allow the solution to “steep” longer, apply strongly brewed black tea before applying the solution, and apply multiple coats.
6. Experiment and test on a piece of scrap or the bottom of a project before applying to the entire thing. You can create everything from a soft, subtle gray, to a more rusty look, to ebony. Because this is permanent, make sure you are creating the look you want.
Left to right. 2 x 4 board. The top of it has a single coat, the lower half has two coats. See how much darker and less red it is? Next is the naturally aged piece. Then, the pine board. The bottom was sanded and had a second coat. The top had a single coat. Finally, the piece of oak. Notice how is is more gray than the pine pieces.
7. After the wood has thoroughly dried, you can seal it with wax or polyurethane. If using polyurethane, use water based as oil-based products will yellow with time, changing the look of your project. Annie Sloan offers the most well known wax product. It’s not inexpensive but a little goes a long way. If you can find it locally, you can save the shipping charges and several companies are now offering comparable products. I often see them at Vintage Markets and antique stores. Rust-Oleum offers a wax alternative that is supposed to be easier to use than wax while still providing ultra-matte protection that looks unfinished. It can be brushed on, or they also offer a spray can version. (In the interest of full disclosure, I haven’t tried the Rust-Oleum product yet. I am looking forward to testing it on my next chalk paint project.)
Same as above only in reverse so you can see it in different light. This stain has been steeping for a very long time. For a more subtle result, use the stain sooner.
8. The solution can be brushed, wiped or sprayed on.
9. Any steel, such as nails and screws, can be used in place of the steel wool. Steel wool just breaks down more quickly, and the finer the steel wool, the quicker it will breakdown. If you’re impatient like me, stick to the steel wool.
10. When your stain has steeped to the desired color, strain it through a paper towel to prevent continued breakdown of the steel wool and the solution will not continue to darken.
10. Have FUN! This stuff is fun to experiment with!